ElectricScooterParts.com Support Center

That type of problem is usually caused by the battery pack or charging system. A small percent of new batteries have factory defects so even though the batteries have been replaced they may still be causing the problem.

Since the rear wheel spins freely, the brake lever wire connector has been disconnected from the controller, and there are no loose wiring connections, then we can take those parts off of the list of parts to check.

I would begin the diagnostic process with a load test of the battery pack. This test requires a multimeter.

To perform the load test use the multimeter to read the Voltage of the battery pack with the power switch off. It should be around 26-27 Volts.

Then while looking at the multimeter turn the power switch on and fully twist the throttle. The Voltage should not drop under 23 Volts during this test, If the Voltage drops under 23 Volts then the battery pack has failed the load test.

If the battery pack fails the load test then the Voltage at the charger port pins should be checked to make sure that it is working and the batteries are being charged. Be very careful when doing this to avoid short circuiting the charger port pins. We recommend wrapping electrical take around all but the very end of the multimeter probes when performing this test.

Also if the battery pack fails the load test then the Voltage of the charger's output plug should be tested to make sure that the charger is working. The charger should have around 28-29 Volts at its output plug.

Please let us know how it goes and we will take it from there.

Since the battery pack from a running scooter has been installed then that eliminates the battery pack as being the cause of the problem.

At this point the problem could likely be the controller, throttle, or motor. The controller is too complex to easily test however the motor and throttle can be tested and if they both test good then that points towards the controller being faulty.

To test the motor unplug it from the controller and wire it to the battery pack or to a 12 Volt automotive battery charger. Do not use the scooter's battery charger for this though because it could become damaged if used to run the motor. While performing this test move the motor wires around to see if the motor cuts in and out while doing so. If the motor runs during this test then it is usually good. There is still a small chance that the motor has a burned out winding and is demanding too much current from the controller though, however the likelihood of that is fairly low.

Razor Pocket Mod scooters were made with various different throttles depending on what version the scooter is. Here are guides on how to test all of the possible throttles that the scooter may have.

• 4 Wire Single Speed Throttle Test (Two Orange and Two Brown Wires)

• 4 Wire Variable Speed Throttle Test

• 5 Wire Variable Speed Throttle Test
  

• 6 Wire Variable Speed Throttle Test

If the throttle and motor both pass their tests then that points towards the controller being faulty.

Please let us know how it goes.

There are six different controllers that the scooter has depending on what version it is. They are not compatible with each other so the right controller needs to be installed.

We sell controllers for all versions of the Razor Pocket Mod Bella scooter on this page: https://electricscooterparts.com/razorpocketmod.html

If you can find an ID tag on the scooter then it can be used to determine which controller is needed.

ID Tag Locator

If the scooter does not have an ID tag then we can determine what controller it needs by the number of wires and wire colors that the throttle has.